Single Chainring Designs

Interesting article on a growing trend of single speed chain ring, no front derailleur design. I’ve always preferred a two chainring setup, but with 11 speed drivetrains coming into their own, it might be time to drop to one chainring.

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/trail-tech-single-chainring-frame-design-37952/

But I just boulght a new front derailure. :stuck_out_tongue:

Seriously though I’m not really that supprised. I run 2x (32/22) up front and almost never use the lower cog, to the point that it’s only there as a “just in case” if some unforseen reason I’d need it. I think 1x11 would be sweet, 1x10 or 1x9 would suit 98% of my riding fine anyways.

I am so on board with this, but it depends on riding style. I only use my granny by mistake really.

I like the evolution of engineering that has enabled the 1x11… leaves a bare spot on the handlebar for the hydraulic dropper seat lever. :sunglasses:

For my commuter I went single up front long ago. Way less fuss. On my road bikes with compact crank, I rarely ever use the small ring.

I don’t think I’ve used a font derailleur on a mountain bike in about 10 years. For where I ride and how I like to ride they just don’t work for me. Full chain guides on all my geared bikes.

I tried to go with a lower guide only on my Enduro as it came with one of the new clutch derailleurs. Didn’t cut it. Not even close. Dropping chains all the time. Might has stayed on with on of the new narrow/wide rings. I put a full DH style guide on instead, I’ll take the extra security thanks.

I’m geared 34 front and 11-36 rear on the Enduro. It’s good for most terrain thou I’ll admit it can be a hard go on some longer climbs. I’ll be interested in seeing how the 11speed stuff develops, the wider range would be nice some times. Thou I do worry about having large uneven gaps in the gearing. Any one here have time on XX1? Any issues with hunting for the right gear?

Maybe 1x11 will be the future, but when it comes to 1x9 and 1x10 depends on more where you live. I run a 1x9 setup on my 29er hardtale and where I live its a workout on the hills. Much nicer to have a 2 ring set up on the front of my full suspension when the hills get steep.

Interesting topic… I’ve got 3x9 on my bike but I don’t think I’ve ever gone to the small ring and rarely (only on the road between trails) have I used the big ring. I’ve been thinking about going to a 2x or even 1x setup… just not sure I want to commit myself ‘in case’.

On the roadie with a compact crank, I assume you are riding a 50/34? What do you use for a cassette? Props if you big ring the Valley climbs, Hesjedal-style.

As for dirt, honestly I am quite slow on my MTB. I pretty much only use the granny (on the trail) and the big ring (off the trail). The middle ring gets little use. :slight_smile:

This is Interesting.

With my current setup (26er, 3x10, 24X32X42T front; 11-36 on back):
Span is: 17.6" - 100.8" per crank rev.

I’m almost never on top gear ring. (which puts me at 81.6" for middle highest)

If I went to a 1x10 (26er, 28 front, same 11 to 36 on back)
Span is: 20.5" - 67.2" per crank rev.

sheldonbrown.com/gears/index.html

Hmm… doesn’t look like there are many chainrings between 24 and 32.

Correct me if I’m wrong but I wonder if you decide to keep your existing triple crankset and convert it to a single, you would get the best chainline (across the cogset) with the single front ring where the middle used to go. In that case the bcd of the crank bolts would probably mean the 32T is as small as you could go.

Yeah, after some searching I came to that conclusion too.

Unfortunately, I still occasionally find the need to go below what my middle ring (32T) provides.

You could always start a new trend with a 24er! That would probably give you the gear inches you want. Not to mention the reduced rim weight would spin up much faster! You would literally climb like a mountain goat!!!

Seriously though you could put in a bailout cog, this guy sells a 41T cog: ebay.ca/itm/41-Tooth-Cog-for … 3cd2ee3c1f

Just take out one of the middle cogs, pop this guy on the bottom and all of a sudden you get an 11-41T, that would give you the 20" gear you are hankering after. Weighs a bit but once you’ve removed your FD and swapped in a smaller cage RD you could brave the weight weenies without shame.

Here’s a 42 tooth cog for retrofitting an exisiting 10 speed cassette to include a 42T by dropping the 17T cog to make room.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Oneup-Components-42-tooth-Cog-for-Ten-Speed-Cassettes-Reviewed-2-2014.html

What are your thoughts on this guys?

(Bringing back an old thread)

Ahh the naive days of July 2013, before Edward Snowden exposed the 29er as plot by “the man” to make money.

I ordered one of these Oneup 42t cogs. They are not shipping until Feb I don’t think, so will be a while before I post how it is, but sounds good.

[quote=“Adam”]

On the roadie with a compact crank, I assume you are riding a 50/34? What do you use for a cassette? Props if you big ring the Valley climbs, Hesjedal-style.

As for dirt, honestly I am quite slow on my MTB. I pretty much only use the granny (on the trail) and the big ring (off the trail). The middle ring gets little use. :)[/quote]

Wow, I didn’t get back to this one for awhile. But yeah, a 50/34 with a 12-25 cassette. I would only drop to the 34 if I needed to climb for a long time and didn’t want to cross chain. Otherwise, I am pretty good at most climbs around NS that are under say 8-9% grade (like Duke St in Halifax).

On my commuter I have a 40 tooth up front with a 12-28 7 speed in the back, so I am used to climbing with limited options.