It’s more firm like a thin plastic. But with a small amount of heat from a hair dryer or heat gun before you apply it makes it soft.
I did a small demo on my drill press for you. This is 3/4" wide by .5mm thick. Right has been heated. Other 2 have not been. You can see the gapping croasing the badge on the one that hasn’t been heated.
Not sure long term how well it works, I only used it for cable rub and chain this year…might want to do a test before covering large areas.
I had a pair of Roach shin pads way back when that looked about the same as this. Hot as hell and they chafed so bad that I think granite rash would’ve been more comfortable. But man were they ever bomb proof!
Trek knock block definitely does its job. My fuel has it. Can feel restricting for quick turns. Sufiw as switch backs.
Just move the levers out of the way 
Then use the extra frame tape stuff for this:
I’ve got the same one!
After reading this thread, had the thought; “is this something I need?” but it seems like my handlebars can spin around without anything touching the top tube. The joys of a small frame perhaps? Unless I end up changing lever and shifter position quite a bit it doesn’t seem like it will be a problem on my Revolver.
Could also go padded cover. I’m a big YNOT fan, can’t go wrong with any on their items.
https://www.ynotmade.com/en/shop/?category=Top%20Tube%20Covers&showall=true
If you have spacers under your stem it may not.
Some riders like to have the stem slammed right down on top of the headset. I find with no spacers my controls hit the top tube.
That may be it, perhaps I will have an issue post bike fit
Ah that must make the difference, mine is as stock and both spacers are below, planning to do a bike fit so may hit if they end up removing those spacers.
I believe the stock revolver also has 15mm riser bar, and I am running a 10mm. So it all adds up. I run my brakes quite low and inboard too, so that doesn’t help. Tbh it doesn’t feel too bad with the 10mm under the stem. So you may be fine.
