My compression knob and the top cap you thread on has been coming loose. My full squish moves from 2 o’clock on the dial up to 12, as shown in the photo. I recently took it apart and tightened to the point I was worried I would never get it undone. You could get it to lock out, trail and full squish, but it was noticeably more difficult to turn the blue compression knob. It’s starting to come loose again. Not sure if I should put a little blue locktite on it. Any ideas? It was serviced in December at S4, and to be honest, I wasn’t all that pleased with the results. This problem being one of them.
Are both circlips in place under the cap? There should be a tiny one and a larger one. One holds the Low speed compression needle in place, and the other holds the compression/lockout cam assembly in place.
There is a 2mm bolt that holds the low speed tiny knob on and a 6mm that holds the lock/trail/open knob. Is the 6mm bolt there and secure?
How firm is the fork when moved to the locked position?
It’s been a few years since I had an RCT3 damper but I’m pretty sure that screw is really low torque and didn’t need loctite. Have you checked the that the bottom part of the compression knob is seated properly and tight?
I’d pull that top assembly apart and rebuild it following the service guide.
Interested to hear about your S4 issues too before I send my shock off somewhere.
There are some exploded views in this manual.
I’ve had several charger dampers apart, they aren’t too bad with some decent snap ring pliers for the tiny ones.
Thanks. I looked at the clamps and they seem to be seated as they are supposed to be.
As for S4, I found the Pike to be quite harsh when it came back. I’m running less air than I did before. Pikes aren’t really known for their small bump sensitivity though, and it is getting old, plus I put it on a new frame with a coil shock. I’ve never had this issue before and it may be totally unrelated to that service. Guess I just had high expectations. Their customer service was great and it wasn’t gone for to long.
I’m thinking of upgrading from a pike to a halberd. Would look good on a Rocky Mountain Slayer.
I found the same thing with the pike. The fork was hard to get supple over fast rough sections, and I was constantly having to bleed the damper because it was sucking air in the seal head.
I’m on a DVO Diamond now and really like it in comparison.
Never have had an issue since I got it from you. Took tokens out running 25 percent sag and no LSC. Oh did do low friction seals. 1500 km so far
I’ve had no real issues with my Pike, feels good over lots of different terrains. Likely needs service though, get the seals replaced. Noticed a little oil leakage from somewhere recently, though it doesn’t seem to have compromised performance at all. Hopefully I can get some of those low-friction seals, too.
I have a 2nd set here I’m sure. Got then from Jensen 2 years ago. Sks brand?
SKF are the best seals, I’ve replaced the standard ones on my bike. I find new seals and replacing the fluids with high quality ones makes a big difference, especially with lower spec forks.
I’ve got a 2019 RS Sektor RL on my hardtail and find it feels really good.
I’m looking at a DVO now. I have always noticed that when I rode in the Valley I could really feel the roots. You are happy with the DVO then? Have you had it serviced?no more expensive than Rockshox or Fox products?
This has been my third summer on the DVO diamond. It came stock on my 2018 Norco sight. For some reason the C3 trim had a DVO as the OEM fork.
I find it doesn’t blow through travel as easy as the pike did, and its definitely no where near as harsh on rooty sections. The negative spring is an actual coil spring vs air, so you can tune the off the top or OTT as they call it. LSC, HSC and rebound knobs are the other adjustments and of course the positive air spring.
I’ve sent it away once to S4 in Quebec and its been feeling fine all summer with close to 1300km on it since the service with no issues.
Thanks for that. It looks like a great fork. I’ve been a few hours to late on two on Pinkbike, already!
I had a dual air SID World Cup. That negative air chamber was a pain in the a*s! I’ll take a coil anytime.
The only downside is that it’s a bit different to disassemble when compared to a fox or RS. It requires some different tools to get the damper apart that most home mechanics wouldn’t have. (Shaft clamps, pin spanner, heatgun) So at home maintenance is something I decided against and I just send it to S4.
If you send in a shock at the same time you get a small discount too.
The “bladder” had me!