What comes into play when buying a fork?

Long story short, I have no idea what im doing lol. Im debating on putting some sort of suspension on my 2013 NS Holy 1. I’ve been doing a lot of reading online and im still lost. can someone try to explain to me what I have to take into consideration when looking for a fork?

Frame: NS 100% Cromoly
Fork: Rigid NS fork 100% Cromoly, 435 mm (a-c)
Headset: Salt by Wethepeople, sealed angular bearings (Campy spec: 45x45deg, OD41.8mm)
Stem: NS Quark
Handlebar: NS Mint
Grips: NS Sam Pilgrim signature
Brakes: Avid BB5 160mm rear / v-brake Alhonga front
Bottom Bracket: SALT by Wethepeople, Spanish BB, 19mm x 8 splines
Crank: SALT by Wethepeople, tubular cromoly
Chainring: SALT by Wethepeople, 25T steel ring
Chain: KMC-410
Rims: NS Fundamental rear / Jalco DBX front
Hubs: Joytech 9 mm front, Octane One Single Speed Pro 11T Driver (sealed) rear
Spokes: Black spokes w/14mm nipples
Tires: Kenda Small Block 8 2.1 rear & front
Seatpost + Saddle: Octane One fat seat-post combo
Pedals: Odyssey Twisted PC
Weight: 24”: 11.7 kg, 26”: 12.1 kg (weights including pedals, without front brake)

Frame size: 24”: 301 mm / 11.9” 26”: 308mm / 12.1”
Head angle: 71.5 deg
Seat tube angle: 72.5 deg
Chainstay: 24”: 374 mm / 14.7” slammed 26”: 381 mm / 15” slammed
Top tube length (c-c): 24”: 554 mm / 21.8” 26”: 574 mm / 22.6”
reach: 411mm
stack: 520mm
BB height: 24”: 308 mm / 12.1” 26”: 312 mm / 12.3”

The most important things- you’ll need a fork designed for a 26” wheel that has a 1 1/8” straight steerer. A tapered steer tube will not fit your frame. Beyond that you want something with a similar a to c length (axle to crown) unless you’re intentionally “overforking” and putting a longer travel fork on it. That frame is probably designed for a suspension fork with about 100-120mm of travel. Check with NS to confirm.


Thank you. so would It be possible to keep the same front wheel or would I have to get a new hub and or whole new wheel?

I don’t think that you need a suspension fork on that bike. Problem solved.


Nah, you don’t even have a front brake so you can keep the same wheel provided the dropouts are the old school kind.


There is the obvious… make sure the fork suits its intended use - if you’re using the bike for dirt jumping, make sure to select a dj fork - no RS Sids (XC) or Boxxers (DH). Something strong enough to handle DJ likely won’t be cheap, but on the other hand I don’t think DJ requires the most supple and adjustable suspension either.
My Specialized P.2 uses a Marzocchi DJ 80 mm travel fork - not made anymore, but might be able to find a used one.
Something like an RS Pike DJ, Argyle RCT, or Manitou Circus might work.
From your bike specs looks like you’re running a 9mm axle, so you need to make sure your new fork supports that axle size, or you’ll need an adapter or new hub for your wheel. Most XC/Trail forks use a 15mm axle size these days. Gravity bikes often use 20mm.