Here are the tools I use for wheel building. These are the tools I’ve come to prefer in my six years of wheel building. I’ve broken the tools down into categories.
Measuring Tools
Every good wheel build starts with precise rim and hub measurements. The three critical factors in determining spoke length are: 1) Effective Rim Diameter (ERD), 2) hub dimensions, and 3) the spoke lacing pattern. I made my own custom rim rods using spokes and nipples. The spokes are threaded flush with the nipple slot. This allows me to calculate ERD++, eliminating the requirement to add rim thickness and nipple head height to the spoke calculation. The Park Tool SBC-1 is my preferred ruler for measuring spoke length. I always measure each spoke before lacing a wheel, to avoid problems during the truing phase. Some of the other tools pictures are a machinists square, spoke gauge key, digital vernier calipers, and digitial hub measuring tool.
Spoke Lacing
Once the spoke length is determined and the materials are prepped it’s time to lace up the wheel. I’ve picked up several tools over the years that add efficiency and precision to this process. The nipple shuffle box, pin vise (it has a sweet cartridge bearing on the handle that makes it spin better), and power nipple driver are my favourites. Pictured are the nipple bath, shuffle box and pin vise, and an assortment of nipple drivers.
Truing Stands
After the spokes have been laced it’s time to start adding spoke tension. I look to do this in the truing stand. I have two stands, an old Park Tool TS-2 that predates thru axle hubs and a Park TS-4 that will accommodate tires up to 5" wide. I’ve modified my TS-2 with adapters for thru axles and extenders to true 29er wheels with the tire on. I really like how Park Tool supports their older tools with retrofits, thanks Calvin. I use truing dials as well, they are accurate to the hundredth millimeter (0.01 mm). I’ve also got a rotor truing gauge attached to the TS-2, it takes the guesswork out of rotor truing.
Spoke Wrenches
Spoke nipples are no exception to the plethora of “standards” that plague cycling. I have far more spoke wrenches than I would like. Some are necessary for standard nipples of varying gauges, and some are just downright annoying (looking at you Shimano). My favourite is my Unior Spoke wrench, Ol’ Yeller. It’s lightweight, has a comfortable grip, and engages four sides of the spoke nipple. The DT Swiss tool is for their proprietary (I hate that word) Squarx nipples, and the three sided wrench is for hex head nipples.
Tensiometers
These are my two tensiometers. The venerable Park Tool TM-1, and the Wheel Fanatyk digital tensiometer. The TM-1 is fast, but not terribly accurate. The digital meter takes a little more time but is incredibly accurate, especially when used in conjunction with the Islandix Instruments Radar. Some folks feel that the best method of determining spoke tension is by plucking the spokes like a guitar string. Many of these same folks also believe that wheel building is an art form. In my opinion accuracy and repeatability make a better wheel.
Everything Else
Another critical tool in wheel building is a dishing gauge. This is to determine the dish (centering) of the rim in relation to the spokes. Most bikes are built for a zero dish wheel, rim centered on the hub centerline. There’s exceptions to this rule, but those bike companies hate you. Some of my other tools are bladed spoke holders, a tire studding tool, and a deburring tool. Burrs from spoke hole drilling affect tensioning and truing. As a part of prepping the rim I check the spoke holes for burrs with a cotton swab. If burrs are present I clean them up with the deburring tool. The Rim Smith tool is great for removing minor dents and bends from rims and rotors. Also pictured is a Unior Hub Genie for removing hub end caps. I had three of them in 12mm, 15mm, and 20mm. The 12 and 15 broke pretty easily, the only reason the 20 hasn’t broken is because I haven’t used it yet. (Street Cents would say that they are fit for the pit!)
